Greece

April 25

Delphi - 2873 Km, Avg = 17.5, Cycle time = 6 hrs, 53 mn

We’re supposed to meet Al Morrow in Delphi today. Al is a friend of Joshua’s that will cycle with us for about 3 weeks. We’re a few days later than expected when we left the US but we’re excited to add a new companion and some new energy to our expedition, a combination that will produce the most difficult day of the trip so far. We got off the ferry from Bari about 12:30pm and headed to a bike shop I knew in Patras to get some brake pads and directions to Rio. Then a market for food, and we were off for the ferry at Rio. The ferry at Rio was almost ready to leave so we had a quick crossing, but still, we weren’t across and on the road until about 3 pm.

Cycling along, we came across our first road sign to Delphi, 113 km. Hmm, we somehow had expected more like 80 Km. Checking the map, unfortunately the sign was correct. At first we were relaxed because it seemed like no way could we make it to Delphi today, but we kept making good time. The three rest days put us in good condition to make some speed, and the first 25 Km were quite flat. The hills over the next 50 km slowed our average, but were still riding at a little better than 20 km/hr. We were pedaling along, passed a road sign indicating 15 Km to Itea, when we topped a hill and rounded a corner to see Itea deceptively close. Surprised that we were so close to Itea, which is just below Delphi, we began to consider the idea of going all the way. For the first time we both spoke openly of making it to Delphi. Well, the sign posts weren’t wrong and we hadn’t magically skipped some 15 Km, we were looking across a narrow bay and the road followed the shore inland and then back to Itea, the 15 Km promised by the road signs.

We rolled into Itea about 8 pm, getting dark, with only 15 Km to Delphi. We could see Delphi high up on the mountainside, close but yet so far. But, we had the momentum and no obvious place to stay so we kept going. The next 4 Km were flat, then we started climbing steeply and kept climbing for the next 11 Km. I had to walk several times but bit by bit, hour by hour we worked our way up that mountain road in the dark with headlamps and yogurt. Finally, we got into Delphi about 10pm and found a room. Al wasn't at the hotel we had arranged but after a quick bite to eat we called him on his phone. After talking together and showering we finally laid down for sleep about 1 am. A long day and a new trip record for a single day distance.

April 26

Gravia - 2927 Km, Avg = 14.1, Cycle time = 3 hrs, 48 mn

A have a well deserved slow start today. We met Al for breakfast and worked on his bike for a while. Then, Joshua went to see the Delphi ruins with Al while I replaced the rear brakes on RoadBoy. Finally, I had rear brakes again. Just in time because after a stop at the market we went right down that mountain we climbed the previous night. A couple of kilometers on the road to Amfissa, we started climbing again. The next 20 km alternated between steep, and very steep. This was Al's first day riding with a loaded bike, ever. A tough introduction but he seemed to hold up pretty well. It helped that we were frequently stunned with magnificent views of the valley behind us, the gulf of Corinth in the distance, and the thunderheads massing on the mountain slopes ahead. Some distance from the top the rain started and we all choose to soak ourselves from the inside with sweat instead of from the outside with rain. Soaked we were though.

At the top we had a spectacular view of the valley ahead of us. It turned out to be a thrilling descent, steep and long, just like the road we had just climbed. We got into Gravia about 7 pm, pretty cold and wet to find that Gravia does not have a hotel. We couldn't make it to Lamia so we stopped, had dinner in a restaurant, waited for near dark, and went into the bush for a cold rainy night of wild camping. Miraculously, it started to clear as we set up our tents on the wet grass.

For Al it was quite the introduction to cycling with Senor Bob and Sal (el brazo de la Mancha), heavy bikes, steep mountains, rainy camps, but spectacular scenery. Still, watching Al take out his never used, tents, sleeping bag, and other gear, all sporting the original sales tags still attached provided some much needed comic relief for the evening.

April 27

Lamia - 2966 Km, Avg = 14.2 km/hr, Cycle time = 2 hrs, 47 mn

We woke to a clear sunny day this morning, wet from the heavy dew. Up by 7 am, we left camp about 8 am and stopped at the restaurant for coffee. Then some repairs to the bikes and we started out. Today promised another climb, not so much as the day before but still demanding.

At Brajos we left the new highway and rode on the old road through Skamnos. After Skamnos the road has been effectively abandoned because of a downed bridge across the Sperchios River at the bottom of the hill. However, assured we could cross on bicycles, we continued on this car-less road till we reached the escarpment overlooking the Skamnos valley. We could see Lamia on the other side of the valley and the long straight road into Lamia across the flat valley floor. Just below us, like an old black ribbon dropped carelessly on the mountain, lay our twisting rock-strewn potholed road down to the valley floor. For almost the whole way down, 10 or 12 kilometers, we had the valley laid out in clear view below. Along the way down both Joshua and I hit some pothole and dented our wheel, the front wheel for RoadBoy and the rear wheel for Shirley.

At the bottom we found a small river and a ford we could use to cross with our bikes. With two people per bike, we walked them across the river and up the other side. From the river, we followed the flat road straight into Lamia and a room at the Hotel Athena. All in all, perhaps the most beautiful and thrilling day of cycling I've ever had.

April 28

Almiros - 3049 Km, Avg = 18.4 km/hr, Cycle time = 4 hrs, 27 mn

Up about 7am, we were ready for the road al little past 8. Finding our way out of town toward Larissa was easy since they don't seem to have yet changed the road signs to direct traffic to the new highway. The traffic was steady but not heavy as we cycled on rolling hills not far from the ocean. We did have a little trouble at the village of Stilda when the road seemed to just dead end at a church. The townspeople seemed to think RoadBoy fell from space, but eventually someone with English skills approached us and asked if we needed help. As elsewhere, the Greek people have been amazingly kind and helpful.

At Karavomilos we ran out of the country roads and switched to the new highway. The new highway looks like a freeway but seems to allow bicycles. We were even waved thru a tollbooth with no charge. Almost the whole length of the freeway to Amirosa the freeway has two frontage roads, one on each side. We considered cycling on the frontage road but were never sure if it would continue all the way. With a few problem areas crossing creeks, I think we could have ridden the frontage roads without problem and no traffic.

We had one longish climb today and just at the top it started to rain, so we stopped for lunch under an overpass. The rain let up just in time for us to start the long downhill run. It was cold in the cool air after the rainfall but as we approached the plain below the clouds cleared and the humidity shot up so that again we soaked our clothes with sweat.

Almiros is a moderate size town with one hotel and a few restaurants around the town square. When we rode in about 3 pm the square seemed dead, but by the evening the streets were alive with walkers and the bars pumping our the rhythmic techno beat ubiquitous to Europe. RoadBoy generates increasingly curious reactions as we progress east toward Turkey. Today at a pastry stop first one boy then another congregated around to gawk. Each boy went to fetch a friend until quite a crowd developed. As in Brussels some years ago, I was able to escape by demonstrating how to start, for which they had to clear a path for me.

Al seems rather tired today, struggling up the hills and going to bed immediately after dinner. He’s always cheerful, but struggling with the same physical adjustment to new demands on the body that we struggled thru almost two months ago. It’s got to be physically tough joining a couple of road tested cyclist two months into a trip.

April 29

near Larissa - 3163 Km

We left Almiros about 8:30am after a stop for breakfast and money at the bank. We headed out of town toward Krokio. About 12 km north of town, at Mikrothives, Al became rather ill and decided he needed to drop out of the tour. He woke up excessively tired but wanted to struggle on. By Mikrothives he decided he might enjoy the adventure better by taking on the role of sag vehicle. So we headed back to Almiros to get him a bus to Thessaloniki. We were fortunate to get there in time for the next bus to Volos where he could transfer to a bus for Thessaloniki. Joshua and I headed back out of town on the now familiar road to Krokio. At Mikrothives we switched to the freeway and started a climb of not more the 600 meters. The land around here is dry, with scrub brush on the mountain slopes.

About mid-day we came across a couple of energetic laughing French cyclies who were three months into a six month trip. The were carrying the oddest baggage I've seen since the derelict cyclist on the Pacific Coast. One actually had a guitar tied to the back with a bongo drum tied on the end, left to swing along as the owner cycling down the road. The bicycles were quite the sight. They had both begun to break under the strain back in Croatia and miraculously there were able to find someone who could weld aluminum reinforcing bars in the triangle support just below the seat. But the best part was their chain and derailleur. I thought Joshua, would feight at the sight. The rear derailleur was litterly caked with what looked like grease mixed with dirt. Still, we had the best time laughing and comparing notes with these maniacle Frence cyclists. Their energy and enjoyment of their ongoing adventure was infectious and exhilirating.

Descending down we left the freeway at Velestino and headed out onto the old highway to Larissa, via Rizonmilos. This road was rather unpleasant, flat, no shoulder, moderate traffic, no shade, on a hot day. We found no markets or towns actually on the road; all were off the road a short way. So, with nothing but gas stations to relieve the toil, we pressed on thru the hot humid day.

About 10 km from Larissa we connected again with the freeway but used the frontage road that parallels the freeway for about 15 km. The freeway continues on through the utterly flat land with some beautiful wild flower fields to relieve the bleak environment. At Evangelismos we stopped for dinner, it was about 6:30 pm and we thought we would eat and then look for a wild campsite. After dinner we started talking to the owner and asked if we could camp in the lovely tree covered grass yard next to the restaurant. He seemed glad to welcome us, mentioning that just 5 days earlier some Japanese cycle tourists had also camped on his site. It really is lovely, perhaps the best campground that we have found, and free, as well as being next to the restaurant. With that we settled in for an extra dessert of ice cream, freed from the worry of finding a wile campsite in this endlessly agricultural land.

April 30

Thessaloniki - 3304 Km, Avg = 20.3 km/hr, Cycle time = 6 hrs, 59 mn

An uneventful day, we got off about 7:30am heading toward Thessaloniki, 142 kilometers away. The ride thru the gorge of Pinos River wasn't as pretty as I had hoped but it was nice and turned out to be the highlight of our day. This extremely dangerous stretch road is winding narrow with no shoulder and relentless high speed traffic as the major highway connecting Athens with Thessaloniki crowds itself in the narrow gorge.

Emerging from the gorge to the beach we started north, past Litohoro and Katerina, mostly riding on the freeway. This freeway here has a wide shoulder and not too much traffic. Occasionally we could switch to frontage roads but most the time it was easier to just put up with the traffic. Mile after mile, we pedaled on in the hot sun with nary a tree to rest under. Finally, we entered the outskirts of Thessaloniki, not so tired as hot and sticky and a little sun burned.

A call to Al and we cycled into the city to meet him at a McDonalds. It was nice to see him again and sit down in the shade for a big cool drink. All in all, not a good day of cycling but we did do a new longest day for the trip, 139 Km.

May 1 - rest day

Joshua gets a new chain and has his wheel straightened.

May 2 - rest day

Al rents a car, one of those tiny little vans we see so often on the road. It’s offers a nice break and a way to take a day trip to Mt Olympus for some hiking.

May 3

Asprovalta - 3397 Km, Avg = 19.6 km/hr, cycle time = 4 hrs, 44 mn

Up at 6am today for an early breakfast and early departure to beat the heat. An easy climb out of Thessaloniki brought us to Liti and then Langadas. After Langadas the traffic thinned out considerably so we had some nice pedaling along the rolling hills north of lakes Koronia and Volvi. Langadas had several fruit stands open, despite the Easter holiday. We're worried about finding open stores this holiday, as it seems most businesses close from Friday to Tuesday. They are building a freeway along the north shores of lakes Koronia and Volvi, our route, but they haven't finished it yet.

We rejoined the main highway at Rendina where the wind was blowing in from the Met pretty strongly. But, a short ride brought us to the beach and then Asprovalta. From Rendina the traffic was quite heavy with holiday travelers. It was hot today but we got the cycling done before 1pm so it wasn't too bad. We’re starting to find it nice to rise and leave early to get the bulk of the cycling done before the hottest part of the day.

Asprovalta is a beach resort town, lots of restaurants and shops, the markets were open, and the campground was open. Al had gone ahead with the gear and gotten a campsite so we had plenty of time for a nap and relaxing. We still have to laugh every time we see him in this little matchbox car.

May 4

Kavala - 3488 Km, Avg = 21.5, Cycle time = 4 hrs, 5 mn

We had another pretty easy day on the flat roads along the eastern shore of Greece. We got started about 7:30am following the coastal road. About 20 km later one could turn left into an interesting looking long valley but we choose to stay with the coast road. The shoulder was large and the traffic fairly light. It's the Saturday before Orthodox Easter so we saw little truck traffic. The coastal road follows the coast closely with only a few hills to slow a cyclist. Sometimes we had nice views of the Med beyond but the coast doesn't have spectacular rock formations or other features that make for dramatic views.

About 20 Km from Kaval we encountered more hill country so our average speed dropped from 23.5 km/hr to 21.5. We got to Kavala in time for lunch with Al, who had found us a room at the Hotel Lucy.

Kavala seems like a lively little town. We walked into town, about a mile, to find the remains of a Saturday farmers market, people out relaxing at the cafes. Some cafes seem to attract a clientele of older men, no women, and either talking or playing card games. Other cafes were filled with smoking young people talking and drinking.

May 5

Fanari - 3592 Km, Avg = 20.4 km/hr, Cycle time = 5 hrs, 4 mn

The hotel had a nice breakfast, so we rose at 6am, packed and got ready to go by the time the breakfast opened at 7am. When we finished breakfast we got out bikes and Joshua discovered that his rear wheel hadn’t gotten such good work back at Thessaloniki. One of his spokes had broken somewhere after Lamia, and others spokes had been nicked by the chain when it slipped off the derailleur. Joshua had the faulty spokes replaced in Thessaloniki at the best bike shop in town but the mechanic didn't do a good job. Some spokes were loose and so after a couple days of riding the wheel was beginning to wobble quite badly. So, rather than risk breaking any more spokes, Joshua decided to ride with Al today and fix the wheel himself.

I headed out of town about 7:45am, following the coastal highway east. A little climb out of town took me under the old aqueduct. The rest of the day was flat or very gentle rolling hills all the way to Farini. At Xanthi I had a hard time finding the highway south to Porto Lagos and ended up in Domitia, maybe 6 km east, before I discovered my error. Today is Orthodox Easter and the little villages celebrate with singing in the churches and quiet family barbeques. I also passed an abandoned Mosque, probably left over from the 1923 exchange of populations between Turkey and Greece. Getting back on the highway to Porto Lagos I cycled into Farini about 2pm to find Joshua just finishing his work on the bicycle.

We met at a tourist hotel, empty except us until the high season. The owners seemed nice and friendly, offering to prepare for us a traditional Easter dinner for this Easter holiday. I think we got leftovers from their holiday dinner, but it was delicious and made more enjoyable by the interesting and eccentric waitress. She was Croatian who had come to Greece to learn Greek, because it was the perfect language, the language of philosophy.

May 6

Alexandropoli - 3695 Km, Avg = 17.6 km/hr, Cycle time = 5 hrs, 53 mn

In the morning we got some bad aftertaste of last nights dinner when the owners charged us about $60 for the dinner. Leaving about 8:30am, poorer but wiser, we decided to try finding our way across the delta through the maze of roads. Partly we were successful but some of the roads shown on the map were not in fact passable. We did have a fairly significant climb up to Minorie, and then later again as we followed the freeway to the coast. The mountains close to the coast were not high but did offer some nice views of the Med. After joining the coast the road goes up and down gentle hills until reaching Alexandropoli. Al met us on the street as we arrived at this moderately large city about 3pm. Alexandropoli is the last major Greek city before Turkey.

From Alexandropoli we are going to take a big break with a side trip to Istanbul. We never wanted to cycle into Istanbul and Al flies home from Istanbul so figured a side trip by train would be just the ticket. It does take longer than expected to get to Istanbul, all day in fact, including long long waits for trains and border crossing. In Alexandropoli we linked up with some other backpackers who shared and lightened the tedium of train travel to Istanbul.

Istanbul itself is not to be missed. It’s large and crowded, but the historical remnants of the city just cannot be compared. The old Theodosian walls, Sophia Hagia, Blue Mosque, and Topkali Palace are stunning, jaw dropping sights. The Grand Bazaar is a little disappointing, filled with tourist shops. We were told that it doesn’t contain a single shop at which local people would shop. The spice bazaar is more interesting. We had a lot of choices for youth hostels, but they were a little crowded, even during May. We could only get a couple days at our first hostel and so had to leave and move to a second. Perhaps the most irritating feature of Istanbul is the constant attentions of the incessant hawkers, especially the notorious carpet salesmen. I haven’t seen such persistence since Calcutta. Still, the Bosporus and the golden horn at night should not be missed, so we extended our stay by a day and went back to Alexandropoli a little sad.