Flathead Country: Roosville to Helena

June 18, to Graves Creek

Distance: 23 miles, Average speed: 9.2 mph, Elevation gain: 1150 feet

After posing for pictures at the Canadian border, we started out in high spirits. The route was easy to follow today, gravel roads and no big climbs but hot. Camp by a good size stream, the water was cold and refreshing after a hot sweaty day.

June 19, to Polebridge Hostel

Distance: 42 miles, Elevation gain: 3879 feet

A tough day climbing over Whitefish Divide, the route followed forest roads that still have several old avalanches blocking our progress. It took us a log of time to disassemble our rigs and carry the gear over the snow. We did enjoy spectacular views from the divide. As we neared Polebridge the gray threatening sky fulfilled it's promise with a lashing cold hard rain with grape sized hail. It came on fast and left me soaked completely through and quite cold.

It takes a family to do it right. Here the Gast family pushes Nancy's bike and trailer across a snow field left over from an avalanche.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A wet road where the pavement ends. The rain during the day brings out most of my rain clothes.

 

 

Polebridge is a funky little place, sort of like a hippie refuge with a great bakery and restaurant. I saw a young moose today. Here Wayne and Mary pose for a picture.

 

June 20, to Whitefish

Distance: 48 miles, Average speed: 9.7 mph, Elevation gain: 1393 feet

Back to Whitefish, I took the valley route with Blair, Nancy, and Lisa instead of the Great Divide route. It is a little shorter and doesn't have nearly as much climbing and it has a lot of truck traffic in places. But, it got me into Whitefish a little earlier so I could get some work done on my gear.

June 21, Whitefish

rest day

June 22, to Bigfork campground

Distance: 46 miles, Average speed: 9.6 mph, Elevation gain: 1388 feet

Fairly easy day, much of it on paved roads, in a semi-rural setting of vacation homes and a few working ranches. No big climbs, it was cold and rainy most all day with a steady drizzle.

A nightly map meeting for the next days route. Every night the group leader held a meeting to sort out business. We generally had two discussion items for these meetings. First, we discussed the meal and the days riding, looking for suggestions on how to improve or change. Generally the cooks would comment on what worked and didn't work. Second, we discussed the next days ride. This was essential preparation because we don't ride together as a group. We know the destination and we each have our own route maps. In the morning after breakfast we leave when we're ready with the only obligation to arrive in camp in time to prepare dinner if responsible for cooking that night.

June 23, to Cedar Creek campground

Distance: 37 miles, Average speed: 7.3 mph, Elevation gain: 2777 feet

It's a slow train,
that Wayne Train,
and for his butt,
a big pain.

Great day of cycling, mostly gravel roads through heavily wooded country. One long relatively steep climb averaging about a 5% grade. The downhill run was lots of fun, long and steep through deep pine forest. I saw a bear cub running after it's mother into the forest.

A rare shot of the Wayne Train on the road.

Life doesn't get any better than this, downhill, nice weather, beautiful weather. Oh, maybe finding a cure for cancer would be better, or the birth of your first child, or ...

You can see the standard Great Divide rig in action here, small panniers in the front, BOB trailer in the back.. I started with no panniers in the front and a truck rack just behind the seat and about 10 more pounds in gear. In Whitefish I sent home the truck rack, 10 pounds of unnecessary gear, and bought a front rack and panniers. The front panniers help plant the front tire on gravel roads. I fashioned a small handle bar bag for my camera. If you look closely you can see a small red dry bag on top of the front rack, it contains my lunch and snacks for the day, save and secure from any rain.

 

June 24, to Bay Look campground

Distance: 39 miles, Average speed: 7.9 mph, Elevation gain: 2715 feet

Relatively easy day with only one long steep climb of about 2 miles. We had several spectacular views of the Swan Mountains and mountain lakes. As we neared highway 83 we passed through some vacation homes along the route. A blocked off forest road gave us a spectacular 3 mile ride on a partially grassed over abandoned road, a real high point for the day.

June 25, to Big Larch campground

Distance: 34 miles, Average speed: 6.8 mph, Elevation gain: 2929 feet

A really spectacular day of cycling. A 5 1/2 mile climb took me up over a pass along the west boundary of the Bob Marshall Wilderness Area. Some of the route was on regular forest roads but much of the time I cycled on abandoned overgrown roads and some single track. Great views of the Swan mountains and the Mission Mountains on the west side of the valley.

Downhill rocks,
.................be careful of them!

Getting to the top of a long downhill took so much work that I generally took the downhill slow and easy, trying to enjoy the moment. Others preferred to rocket down the hill at maximum speed, BOB trailer bouncing behind as best it could. If you're the latter type then you'll want to get a BOB Ibex. The shock absorber for the rear wheel cushions the blow of bouncing up and down on rough trails. All the downhill racers in our group who started with a regular BOB trailer ended up breaking the trailer frame and needed to have it welded.

June 26, to near Ovando MT

Distance: 33 miles, Average speed: 8.5 mph, Elevation gain: 1630

Easy day. Rolling hills, I had a long lunch by a wonderful stream and drank a cold root beer left over from last night. I saw many deer with fawns by their side. I got to Ovando about 1:30pm and enjoyed a cold fruit juice, apple, and pastry. Ovando has a cute museum about the town which is nearly a ghost town. Camp was a short ride out to a rive running through the nearly treeless valley.

June 27, to Lincoln Montana

Distance: 38 miles, Average speed: 7.7 mph, Elevation gain: 2226 feet

Today was fairly easy with one steep long climb. We started out in a valley filled with ranches and then climbed to a pass. Along the way I enjoyed several stunning views of classic Montana terrain. A couple of high mountain lakes reflected even higher mountain peaks. About 2 miles from Lincoln I decided it was too early to arrive so I had a second lunch and a nice long nap.

Camp cooking with a BOB windbreak. The BOB trailer makes pretty handy camp furniture. Here Mike and Nancy are using a BOB and jacket as wind break. Turned upside, the BOB makes a pretty good serving table for hungry Great Dividers.

 

 

Lisa and Nancy taking a break before getting to the steep part.

June 28, to near Dead Man creek

Distance: 30 miles, Average speed: 6.5 mph, Elevation gain: 2640

The first divide crossing today at Stemple pass. The first 8-10 miles were easy but the last 5 miles up to the pass were quite difficult, especially the last 2 miles. Very steep, I walked much of it. We had to cross several streams today but they were small enough to just ride across. Some large mud holes presented a greater problem. I wasn't the only one who got almost across a mud hole, only to come a stop and quick fall, feet still clicked into pedals!

Lisa and Mike working on a new zen of the push bike. I don't mind pushing and I did my share on this trip. It was slow, inefficient, but always a welcome relief to by butt. Riding an upright bike gives me new appreciation of my recumbent bike.

June 29, to Helena Montana

Distance: 40 miles

Great day. We continued on down the Dog Creek valley today where we met some weekend campers. After lunch I started up Priest Pass, a comparatively easy climb. From the top I enjoyed a long steep downhill ride on gravel roads to highway 12, about 7 miles from Helena. No cyclometer measures today due to malfunction.

 

Blair getting bigger in my rear view mirror.

Mining Country: Helena to Colter Bay

June 30, Helena

rest day

July 1, to Park Lake campground

Distance: 28 miles, Average speed: 5.9 mph, Elevation gain: 3363

Surprisingly tough day today. The first climb of about 3 miles and 1200 feet was hard but expected. The second climb seemed to go on forever. Each curve seemed to promise a top but failed to deliver the sought after relief. Not enough water, I got a little dehydrated by the time I got to camp. The lake is nice and not too cold, just about right for a refreshing swim.

July 2, to Butte

Distance: 56 miles, Average speed: 8.4 mph, Elevation gain: 2832

Maybe the toughest day since June 19. The 4x4 road going up from camp was very difficult and steep. I had to walk much of it, I even had to walk some of the downhill parts. At the top we followed the ridge for a while, occasionally finding beautiful large meadows, inviting a nap. An invitation I resisted. The frontage road along I-15 was hard hard getting to but once on it the route followed an old railroad bed. Sometimes the route left the interstate and passed through some quite attractive river views. We had a steady climb up to Elk Park Pass, from the pass we had a fast downhill rid into town and the KOA campground.

Alas, today we had our first injury. Nancy fell on a gravel section coming down from Elk Park Pass, she broke her collar bone and had to drop out of the trip.

Nancy pushing up Elk Park Pass, Wayne near the top.

 

July 3, to Beaverdam campground

Distance: 42 miles, Average speed: 7.0 mph, Elevation gain: 3357 feet

Another tough day. I went to the post office to pick up some mail and so got a late start out of Butte. The route goes south out of town climbing into the mountains beyond Thompson Park. The climb was steep but on good paved or gravel roads. After Thompson Park the going got tougher as the road deteriorated. Topping out high above I-15, I enjoyed some great views of the surrounding country. The downhill to I-15 was fun, passing through rolling sage prairie. From I-15 the route crosses a long flat valley and then climbs steeply up toward Mt. Fleecer. The dreaded Mt. Fleecer.

Kevin, Lisa, and Jim resting by the road.

Guy and Nick enjoying a private joke, probably at my expense. I'd have my turn later.

Trevor shows off the right stuff on Fleecer Mountain.

 

 

Mark headed down Mt. Fleecer.

 

Mark, Guy, and Trevor watching others climb Mt. Fleecer.

 

 

 

 

Nick walking down Fleecer mountain! I showed him how just minutes before.

July 4, to Elkhorn Springs

Distance: 63 miles, Average speed: 8.5 mph

Started off with a steep climb out of camp, then to an extremely steep climb up Mt. Fleecer. Coming down off Mt. Fleecer was impossible. I, like all but the insane members of our group, walked my bike down, crisscrossing through the sage brush. From the bottom I had a very pleasant ride along a beautiful river with many inviting swimming pools. At the hamlet of Wise River I made a terrible mistake and claimed the big good prize for the trip. I turned up highway 43. Thinking that I could stop thinking I pressed on for 14 miles before realizing my error and started back toward Wise River. From Wise River I still had 33 miles to Elkhorn Springs and dinner. At the store I asked a man with a truck for a ride but he declined, saying he wasn't going my way. I hung around the store a bit more, whining to the store manager when a customer offered to give me a ride about 10 miles up the road. Dropped off, I started walking as my knee, injured on the descent of Mt. Fleecer was starting to hurt, when along comes the original guy I asked for a ride. He nicely stops and explains he's decided to go fishing. Between the two rides I got to within 12 miles of Elk Springs, but still at the bottom of a big climb. Hours late, I finally straggled into the lodge, hungry and ready for the hot springs. Nicely, my mates were relieved instead of disappointed at my arrival. Along the way I wasn't too tired to notice some of the most spectacular looking fly fishing country I've seen outside of Yellowstone National Park.

Our intrepid leader Guy

July 5, Elkhorn Springs

Rest day. Elkhorn Springs is quite nice and the hot springs a really nice treat. The restaurant at the lodge has great food and plenty. Frequent, almost constant bike maintenance is a must, but in the end did not save my cassette.

July 6, to Bannack

Distance: 12 miles, Average speed: 11.1 mph, Elevation gain: 249 feet

An easy day, mostly downhill, our route took us through dry valleys mostly covered with sage. A little hot but not too bad, no shade until the campground. Bannack is the first territorial capital of Montana, now a ghost town. It has the larger collection of old buildings I've seen in a ghost town, now mostly restored by the Historical Society. the old hotel is especially interesting, a two story brick building, it is quite substantial. The old jail was austere and primitive. The campground has some nice cottonwood trees for shade and a nice little steam.

I told Mary she didn't have to worry about getting run over, but he still was a pain in the butt about being left in the road.

July 7, to wild camp on the route

Distance: 34 miles, Average speed: 8.5 mph, Elevation gain: 1796 feet

Hot day, I got started about 8am on the long gravel road heading west out of Bannack toward Grants 12 miles away. Dismal looking Grants, even the grocery/welding shop has closed. About 20 more miles across dry sageland we found a nice little campground where the road neared a small stream. It was a rare flat grassy space just the below the romantically named Medicine Lodge Mt. Fewer mosquitoes than we're used to, but plenty of flies. The stream water is barely cool, but still nice for bathing.

I got a bottle with cover for my bottom bottle cage to keep the mud off the mouthpiece, but it works well for cow shit too.

Where ever bicycles roam these strange toadstools seem to pop up.

July 8, to Lima MT

Distance: 49 miles, Average speed: 10.1 mph, Elevation gain: 1622 feet

I left about 7:45am on what looked like the start of a hot day with a strong headwind. Nicely, the wind died as I approached the pass, a five mile climb I topped out on a cloudy cold day and limitless views of the sage prairie around me. A short steep downhill,then some rolling hills, and then a long gradual 8-10 mile downhill with a nice tail wind. About 5 miles from the I-15 the wind changed again and I fought a headwind to the interstate. At the interstate, the wind changed again, giving me a nice boost into Lima. We camped on the lawn next to Sportsman Inn and R. V. Park and rented a room for showers. It's extremely hot.

We lost Bill today, he had a tumble on his bike and broke his scapula. A Japanese Great Divide rider helped him get a ride from some local fishermen. Mike's pedal stripped out so he had to catch a ride with a local rancher. The local welding shop fixed the pedal permanently to the crank so he could continue.

The Japanese rider sets a fast pace so we won't see him again, but he did leave us all with a lasting memory. The next morning he joined us for breakfast. He walked up with his oversize coffee mug, heaped in spoon full of coffee, a dash of milk, several hands full of corn flakes, some Tang, a package of instant oatmeal, crunched up some Oreo cookies, and then some nice hot water with which to mix his brew. He brought our whole group to a stop, mid-mouthful, looked up, saw our bewildered faces and said "What"?

July 9, to Upper Redrock Lake Campground

Distance: 56 miles, Average speed: 8.7 mph, Elevation gain: 1998 feet

A hard day of rolling hills, hot dry air, and sandy/rocky roads of washboard. I rod all day up a flat valley with dry grassland surrounded by forest topped mountains. Pretty country in a dry way, and the working ranches are interesting. I saw several cowboys moving cattle, almost every cow with a calf.

In places the sand is so thick that it's easier to ride on the washboard, in other places it's rocky. A few hills have very steep but small climbs just before the top. Very little wind today. Campground thick with mosquitoes, lake muddy and not attractive for swimming close to the shore. Mores the pity.

Lisa showing the colors to the uncaring cattle.

July 10, to Flatrock Campground

Distance: 32 miles, Average speed: 8.7 mph, Elevation gain: 1158 feet

Easy day, I got off about 7:45am. The lake was pretty and the valley cool but I didn't see any wildlife. The last part of the climb up to Redrock Pass was quite steep but the rest was just a nice steady climb. A long downhill past Henry's Fort Lake, I passed a horse riding school with boys and girls out practicing barrels.

Jim Billy-Bob ridin the plank road bridge.

July 11 Warm River Campground

Distance: 31 miles, Average speed: 8.6 mph, Elevation gain: 88 feet

Another easy day despite a difficult road surface. We rode almost all day on an old railroad bed. It is quite flat and straight but very sandy. In some places I had to shift down to my lowest gear and pay close attention to the front wheel, else I lose balance and fall. The route was also chewed up pretty badly with ATV's, which raised great clouds of dust whenever they passed. The last 4-5 miles are very nice, with at good compact gravel surface along the rolling Warm River about 50 meters below. Alas, it was a little too far to descend and enjoy a nice swim. Along the way we had some wonderful views of the Grand Tetons.

Trevor broke his BOB trailer today so he went on to Ashcroft to get it welded. Mike went to Ashcroft to get a new crank and pedal.

July 12, Campground #4, Rockefeller National Parkway

Distance: 44 miles, Average speed: 6.9 mph, Elevation gain: 2911

A normal day on the Great Divide, the most difficult part was the high traffic on the gravel road. It seems there is a Boy Scout camp up the road getting out today, resulting in many SUV's going down the road, usually at very high speed spitting out rocks and raising thick clouds of dust. The drivers seldom slowed, so much for the courtesy part of their creed. Later, we climbed higher on rougher roads with little traffic. I stopped by a cool stream, Calf Creek, had a cool bath, long lunch, and a nice nap. Cascade Creek looked inviting for another bath but I pedaled on to the campground. The river at the campground has a nice sandy beach, good for swimming. However, Mike got a leech. I took my chances to get some of the sweat and dust off before bed.

Kevin broke his chain today and Nicks panniers are breaking.

Jim Billy Bob Jr with moose.

July 13, Colter Bay Teton National Park

Distance: 25 miles, Average speed: 9.2 mph, Elevation gain: 1097 feet

Easy day, I stopped at Flagg Ranch for a big hearty breakfast, then pedaled on toward the Tetons. The paving started at Flagg Ranch. Turning onto the highway I had a small climb up to Jackson Lake, and then a longish downhill ride to Colter Bay. I needed some work on the bike so took a quick shower, and headed to the highway to hitch a ride to Jackson Hole. I scored a ride right away, all the 40 miles into Jackson Hole.

July 14, Colter Bay Teton National Park

Rest day

I got had the shifter cables changed on my bike, picked up long list of spare parts requested from others, and then hitched back to Colter Bay in two rides.

Jim Billy-Bob and moose.