Great Divide 2003 & 2004: Canada to Mexico
Rocky Mountain High: Rawlins to Del Norte
July 9, Rawlins:
Back again in hot dusty Rawlins, it's not as hot as last year but still hot enough to remind me of last years tough crossing of the Great Basin and make me sympathetic with the group I'm joining who crossed the basin over the last four days. Along with a cyclists from Barcelona, I'm joining a group of five people who started in Whitefish MT. The group includes Michael Jacob and Bill Bliss who were part of the group last summer and like me want to finish the divide. The other members include Donna from Vancouver BC, Cas from Pennsylvania, and Marty from Boston.
July 10, to Savary Creek
Distance: 41, Average speed: 6.8, Elevation gain: 2840
A difficult first day. We faced a pretty steady head wind in the morning that diminished by the afternoon. It was pretty hot in the sun but cool in the shade. The air is quite dry. Light traffic with maybe 3-4 cars per hour. The last 10 miles were a little tough with steep rollers and treacherous descents. Mike took a small spill but emerged unhurt. No trees all day, lots of sage brush. About 100 meters past Savary Creek on the east side of the road is a nice grassy flat spot for tents and a breeze to keep the mosquitoes at bay. The mud banks along the creek make getting water a little difficult. But, across the road, on private property, I found a concrete dam with a small water fall that worked very well for a shower.
Out on the treeless prairie the wind can howl. Bill's cooking on an upturned BOB with tent fly as windbreak while hungry cyclists wait for re-fueling.
The charming owner/operator of the Savary Store provides plenty of cold drinks and snacks at the end of a cycle day. The camp behind the store was plush with nice grass and a refrigerator in the trailer for us to use. The nearby museum is, as advertised, worth the stop!
July 11, to Savary WY
Distance: 37, Average speed: 8.1, Elevation gain: 2163
Climbed up to the famous Aspen Alley today. It's pretty but a little disappointing after hearing so much about it. I enjoyed Big Sandstone Creek more, with it's nice bathing pool. The 15 mile climb took us into pine and aspen forest, very welcome after the long hot basin. Just past Aspen Alley the route connects to Highway 70 that we followed all the way down through Slater and then to Savary WY, four miles off route and back down in the sage treeless sage brush. We're camped behind the grocery store. It has a nice lawn, shower, and a refrigerator we can use. The cold drinks in the store helped re-hydrate us after the hot cycling.
Big sky country in Colorado too. Yet another spectacular view on the Great Divide.
Donna, Marty, and Cas getting directions from a friendly cowboy.
Ah, well boys, I think you turn right just over yonder and follow the road.
July 12, to mile point 70.1
Distance: 35, Average speed: 5.9, Elevation gain: 2931
A hard day, hot with lots of climbing. I got a good start from Savary, about 7:30am and kept riding steadily until I got to camp about 2pm, where I got a nice nap until about 5pm when the rest of the group arrived.
Mile point 70.1 has a nice campground right on the road with a nice nearby stream. The stream doesn't have a pool for bathing but cool and refreshing for a bucket shower. From the camp we have an open field providing a nice view.
Look closely at Marty, he's the one encased in mosquito netting. This lovely camp had a nice view of an alpine valley for sunset, and a few mosquitoes.
July 13, to Steamboat Springs
Distance: 40, Average speed: 9.7, Elevation gain: 1590
From camp we faced a very steep 1.5 mile climb that I had to push almost all the way. I fell at one point and bruised my hand pretty badly. From the top we had a 3-4 mile rocky descent and then the road improved. Another long descent brought up to Clarks Store where the pavement begins. Rolling hills slowly dropping down a river valley made for a fast ride into Steamboat Springs.
I left my camelback at Clarks Store, which added maybe 10 miles to the day for me to go back and get it. The KOA campground is no longer a KOA, so I missed the campground and cycled a couple miles before convincing myself I needed to turn back. Finally, getting to camp I looked forward to a rest day. The campground is on the city bus route so it's easy to get into town for treats and shopping.
Cas and I hike-a-bike up a rough rocky section. What a way to start the morning, still I'd rather do it in the morning Later I'd try to pedal a section only to fall and earn a bruise I would carry for a couple weeks.
July 14, Steamboat Springs
Rest day.
Steamboat Springs has a great little bus system that goes right down the main street and then out to the new shopping malls. It's very nice for weary cyclists who don't really want to ride a bike for the day.
July 15, to Lynx Pass NFCG
Distance: 40, Average speed: 7.2, Elevation gain: 3068
I left Steamboat on the Yampa River bike path. The directions were a little hard to follow but I eventually found County Route 132 leading into the mountains with gradual climbs intermixed with short steep pitches. The route along the Blacktail Conservation Easement and then on the Yampa above Stagecoach Reservoir was very beautiful with stereotype views of valley ranches and meandering streams. The route has frequent surface water but it mostly looked pretty bad.
At the north fork of Morrison Creek I found some nice clear water and filtered myself a refreshing drink. The last two miles to Lynx Pass were steep but climbable by me in my lowest gear. The climb goes through a shady pine forest.
During lunch I had a special treat. While sitting near the road, eating my dry sandwich, a coyote totted by, carrying a mouse, oblivious to my presence. Suddenly, the canine sensed my presence, turned, saw me, and bolted away into the forest. I also saw a family of 7 minks playing in the water. It rained a little last night
The climb up to Lynx Pass was mostly gentle passing through high green meadows.
July 16, to Kremmeling
Distance: 29
Average speed: 7.4
Elevation gain: 2252
Cas riding carefully on a fast downhill section.
I left about 8am on an overcast morning that cleared by about 9am. The route started out with a great downhill ride through a forest that opened out into a broad highland meadow with forests hugging the slopes. The creek in the meadow was clear and shallow so at the ford for the day we had no problem getting across just upstream from the main ford. I passed a relic of the old west, an old stagecoach station, and then started to climb. Topping out led to a spell of rolling hills then a very steep climb for a couple miles. I had to push most of it. Cas fell in a sand trap and scrapped his knee and elbow on one of the descents. We decided to take it more cautiously the rest of the way.
From the top we had a nice view of the Colorado River and Radium far below. Radium has no services at all. Crossing the upper Colorado River we started a long climb while watching a thunderstorm build in behind us up the valley. It caught us just past the top with pouring rain and lightning just over our heads. Cas and I stopped and waited out the rain on the side of the road. When it let up we started off again only to find my BOB trailer with a flat.
Just as I finished fixing the flat a truck with a stock trailer pulled up and asked if we wanted a ride. Bill was already enjoying the transport so we readily joined. What a treat to get a ride over the muddy final 15 miles to the pavement.
Kremmeling is a nice little town with a great free campground for cyclists and hikers, just behind the old firestation. Nice grass, covered picnic table, and nearby bath rooms. Marty came in late after an avalanche blocked a train that blocked his way over the Colorado River.
Saved by a stock trailer, I was happy to ride in the back over the muddy roads.
July 17, to Heaton Bay CP
Distance: 58, Average speed: 7.2, Elevation gain: 3671
This was a long hard day for me. It started off badly with Mike announcing over breakfast that his illness was much worse and so he would have to drop out. Cas decided to join him heading home. So, we're down to five and rearranging equipment causes a late start for the day. I finally got started on the long climb up Ute pass. It was long but only the last three miles were really steep, Martin and I had to walk much of it, mostly to relieve the pain in our butts.
At the top it started to rain and it rained off and on until we got to Silverthorne. In Silverthorn Marty and I found the others waiting and drinking in a bar. It was getting late but the campground was outside of town so we decided to eat first and then go to the campground. By the time we had dinner and then bought food for the next day, it was well after dark. The campground was full but the camp host, taking pity on some wet and tired cyclists, let us stay in the activity area.
July 18, to Selkirk CP
Distance: 32, Average speed: 7.0, Elevation gain: 2463
A welcome short day. I started out early passing through the touristy Frisco and Breckenridge on a busy but nice bicycle path. It seems there was a two day bike event going on so we were constantly passing cyclists. I had a nice lunch in the park at Frisco, then started the long climb up to Boreas Pass.
The climb up to Boreas Pass follows an old railroad bed with a steady 3% grade for about 10 miles. I was able to climb steadily in low gear but at times it was wearing in it's monotony. I saw a red fox cross the road today. It rained a little today, off and on but the road stayed in good shape.
The Selkirk CP has a small stream about 50 meters away, just big enough for a little bath and rather inconvenient for getting water.
July 19, to Hartsel
Distance: 38, Average speed: 13, Elevation gain: 559
The last I would see of Guillem for the day!
A late start was no problem for this easy day with a good road surface trending downhill from camp all the way to Hartsel making for fast riding.
When we got to Hartsel we found out that the Hartsel Springs Ranch, where we intended to stay, was closed while the owners were away on vacation. With rain starting, the kind owners of the Hob Cafe and Saloon let us stay in the back of the saloon and use their bathroom. We had a surprisingly good dinner and enjoyed the company of the local people drinking and playing pool. Obviously kind hearted, yet oddly brusk, the owners and other locals were interesting and eccentric. Perhaps my favorite image of the evening was listening to the owner answer the phone with a harshly spoken "What do you want?"
July 20, to Salida
Distance: 56, Average speed:8.5 ,Elevation gain: 2374
Another late start after a big breakfast at Hob's Cafe, treat from Bill. On Hwy 9 I came across a Mountain Man Rendezvous but it wasn't really ready for visitors yet and they didn't show much interest in a cyclists riding through their fantasy wilderness.
At County Rd 53 I started a long gradual ascent of a wide basin, into another basin, and the a steep climb to within about 15 miles of Salida. Most of the route was on pretty good gravel roads until about mile 25 when the road got more primitive. Down in the basin the road was plain dirt which I worried would turn to impassable mud with the threatening rain. I hurried as best I could to get higher up on the mountain on steeper slopes before the rain started. The last two miles to the top of the pass were very steep, I had to push the whole way.
From the top I got a long 15 mile downhill ride into Salida, steep the whole way. One of the awesome downhills of the route so far.
July 21, Salida
rest day
Salida is a great little town. I finally got to a movie for some diversion and thoroughly enjoyed eating, bike servicing, relaxing and napping the day away.Rained in the afternoon.
July 22, 6 mi W of Marshall Pass
Distance: 30, Average speed: 5.8, Elevation gain: 3247
A fairly easy day despite lots of climbing. The grade was a steady 3% as we climbed up an old railroad route. I passed through beautiful pine and aspen forests with frequent stunning views. Only the occasional car or ATV marred the experience. I cycled with Bill most of the day. We saw two adult mountain sheep with a kid (baby) eating salt off the road bed.
The 6 mile downhill from the pass was great, not too steep and the road was in good shape. We camped just where they are reconstructing a bridge making the road impassable to cars. No water near the camp but it's a beautiful camp tucked away in the aspen trees.
It started to thunderstorm about noon today but Bill and I only got a few drops. Donna and Marty got hit pretty bad. Marti tried the alternate route and found it very steep and nearly impassable with the mud and so didn't get to camp until about 6:30pm.
July 23, to Upper Dome Reservoir
Distance: 50, Average speed: 9.2, Elevation gain: 3037
I woke up to a cloudy sky and a few drops so I decided to pack up the tent right away. Alas, my colleagues decided that rain in the morning was "God's way of telling you to go back to sleep." So, I found a nice tree, built a fire, and waited for the rain to stop.
Finally getting off about 10am we confronted a difficult task getting over the construction. It probably took us about an hour to cross the stream and get out bikes up the 20 foot embankment on the other side. From there we had a wonderful downhill ride into Sargents, through beautiful pine and aspen forests, it was a delight.
From Sargents we started across the prairie. About 3pm a very heavy thunderstorm hit Bill and me with slashing rain and pelting hail. We had to stop and just stand in the road under a tarp with the rain and hail. In a short while the gullies by the road were filled with rushing water and we were soaked and shivering. Finally able to continue we warmed up a little as we rode, finally getting to camp about 7:30pm. The camp has a pump for water but rough gravel for a bed. Nice view of the surrounding prairie.
Drying out, slowly, it was good to find a camp, be it ever so filled with gravel. During the night we seemed to make a herd of cows rather unhappy with our blocking the way.
Meandering ripples
call
for a
book
and a
nap;
or a
hook?
July 24, to Primitive Camp 7 mi W of 114
Distance: 34, Average speed: 8.2, Elevation gain: 2200
I climbed up to Cochetopa Pass on a gentle road until the last 2 miles, which were rather steep. Not too steep for me to cycle though. From the pass it's mostly downhill on a good gravel road except for a steep 1/2 mile climb about half way down. Pedaling on the N1124 highway was easy till the turn off on County G45. This road starts to climb to Canero Pass through a pretty little canyon with a small stream. It's not very steep until about mile 5 when they road starts to climb very steeply. I had to bike-pack it.
I got into camp in time to have a bath in the stream and a nap before the afternoon thunderstorm hit about 4:30pm. It was brief but lots of thunder and lightening.
July 25, Del Norte
Distance: 44, Average speed: 8.9, Elevation gain: 2105
We woke up to a clear sky today. The first three miles out of camp today the route climbed steadily but not too steeply. The last mile to the pass was very steep, I had to walk the whole way. A few rain sprinkles were refreshing.
The 10+ mile downhill was spectacular as the route dropped down a beautiful canyon with sandstone cliffs and basalt dykes. Some beautiful hanging meadows with small streams were hard to pass. They seemed to beg for a long nap and a good book. Just about where the canyon widens out to the plain below the stream passes through a basalt dyke forming a narrow gap called the "Gates of the Canyon".
The route goes to Del Norte the long way back up into the mountains with a few short steep climbs. I met Guillem at the turn off to the stone arch. I dropped my BOB and we pedaled the two miles to a slightly disappointing sandstone arch. It was nice but not spectacular, I've seen better in Escalante.
Back on the main route, I turned off the wide gravel road onto FR665, a very primitive road. It's very easy to miss, Guillem who surged ahead of me after the arch missed it and got about 20 bonus miles for the day. I was happy to catch up with Bill as route finding in this area is very difficult. The road winds on down a very isolated and dry valley through prairie sage and sandstone outcrops. It's pretty rough going in sections with difficult sand traps especially in a section in which the double track road follows a dry creek bed. We camped in the RV park, nice enough but expensive. A thunderstorm hit about 5pm, short and not too much rain.
July 26, Del Norte
Rest day. The one and only bicycle/climbing/photography shop has a great owner with interesting stories to tell and a great divide sign-in book. It's worth a visit. But, for me, the lack of a theatre was sad. Still, I had a great day of napping and eating and bike maintenance.