Why Greece and Italy?

Cycling in Greece and Italy enabled us to see some of the most historic and scenically beautiful places of Europe, from ancient to modern. This online journal documents a cycle trip from Athens, across the Peloponnese, and up the Italian boot. We climbed steep mountains, sped down the other side, sweated out the humidity of south Italy, struggled our way up to Gubbio, and enjoyed deserted resorts on the Italian coast. The food was the best, the scenery spectacular, and the drivers courteous.

Both Bob and I wanted to see Greece, me again, Bob for the first time. I love Greece as the birthplace of western culture, democracy, and gyros. Bob had visions of Greek beaches and a suntan. The first time I visited Greece I couldn't stay away from the Acropolis in Athens. I must have climbed those steps or wandered around the base, fascinated to stand walk so many cultural heros had walked, ponder the view so many others had seen. Standing on the edge, I tried to feel the plight of Athenians, watching the Spartans plunder their homes below and lay waste to their farms and olive groves. And where did Socrates walk and talk, where exactly? Could I somehow feel his presence these many centuries later?

A cycle trip promised to help be see this ancient land in a more intimate way, with time to ponder it's impact on my culture, so far in time and distance from it's origin. Cycling would prove a challenge for the body, with its mountains and narrow valleys. But, many believe that the very terrain of Greece created the multitude of Greek city states, each with its own form of government. In these small valleys and protected cities, Greeks experimented with every conceivable form of government, except divine rule. Later peoples and cultures could choose the form that worked best.

I've been to Italy before but Italy always pleases and promised to provide Bob with a great introduction to Europe. The route for this trip would take us up the less traveled east shore of the Italian peninsula. We would pass through ancient sites of Magna Greaca, Roman Empire, Norman conquest, Saracen raids, and scenic wonder. We passed close to the site of Cannae, where Hannibal defeated the Romans in one of the two most famous battles of western military tradition. Sometimes we travelled through agricultural land, rich with fresh produce, sparse with small villages Sometimes we cycled in not yet crowded beach resorts, waiting for the Germans and their Lira. Later, we challenged the mountains of La Marche, the route of invaders from time forgotten. We could touch and see the Renaissance serenity of Urbino and Gubbio. Finally, we could end up in the Veneto, refuge for Roman emperors and great bridge between east and west.

For this trip I'm joing by Bob McClain from Missouri. I met Bob McClain in Missouri last year while cycling the KATY trail across the state. Over the next year we came up with the goal of cycling across Greece and up Italy. We're the same age and compatible cyclists in terms of speed and distance. Over time we found out that we were also compatible socially as well. Whew! Bob had not travelled in Europe before by any method, much less a cycle trip, so I imagine he was at least as anxious as I was about taking off for unknown adventures.

Getting to Athens, 33 Km

The trip started early in the morning on May 5 with an insistent alarm clock set for 2am. The plane didn't leave till about 6am but it takes about 1 1/2 hours to drive to Spokane, the nearest large airport, and I needed time to box my bicycle. Instead of boxing the bike in advance I decided it would be easier to just take the bike and the box to the airport and box it there. My lovely wife again made the difference by going with me to the airport and driving back home the same day. Boxing the bicycle is now an old story for me, take off the pedals, twist the handlebar, tape padding to the front, and tape up the box with duct tape.

My partner Bob and I met in Chicago and eventually settled into the long flight to Frankfurt and then Athens. We arrived at about 11am local time and found our bikes in good shape. It took us a couple hours to assemble the bikes, load our gear, get money, and start the ride into Athens to find a motel.

The Athens airport is new but very badly located for cyclists. The Greeks have built a wonderful expressway that goes directly into Athens, but cyclists are not allowed. Instead, you have to take the long way around a triangle, through Koropi and Vari, passing relentless commercial and light industrial development. The traffic and noise and exhaust fumes assault the cyclist the whole way. The distance is not so far but the stop and go traffic and the difficult route finding made for a long long trip. At times the traffic was fast and inconsiderate, even dangerous. At one point we found ourselves trying to find a way to walk our bikes off a busy expressway. In short, if you must fly into Athens, prepare yourself for a bad beginning.

We finally got to Piraeus and found a hotel just before dark, grabbed a bite to eat, and collapsed in bed, sleeping deeply until early morning.